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When curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This accolade has made the family utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small place achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.